I have a love of quilting, and am committed to providing service to you...and your quilts.
If you would like for me to make, finish, or quilt your quilt...
Read this page to get an overview of the options.
My turn around time is approximately one month. I offer a rush order for an additional charge. (see below)
Longarm Quilting Services Price List
Rush Orders are available as my time allows, however there will be a 30% upcharge.
Customer is responsible for shipping cost not included in prices. When possible, I will use a USPS flat rate box.
Additional Services: I would love to make your quilt from conception to completion. Please email me to discuss commission work at email@example.com
Preparing your Quilt Top for Longarm Quilting
Quilt top and backs should be pressed and all threads clipped. I charge additionally by the hour for pressing and squaring up tops and backs . Loose dark threads left on the back of the quilt top can detract from the quilt if they are caught between layers. Please be sure all seams are secure. If you have a pieced border (flying geese, piano keys etc.) stay stitch the outer edge to avoid stretching. Make sure your outer seams are “locked” or stay stitch the outer edge. The longarm puts quite a bit of tension on your quilt.
Please mark the top of your quilt top and back with a safety pin. If you have selected a design that you have a directional preference, please specify whether you want the pattern to go vertically or horizontally on the quilt. Quilts are loaded on the frame based on the backing seam – this seam is pinned running horizontally to avoid loose floppy areas and possible puckering, keep this in mind when choosing your pattern. Also consider your thread color when selecting your backing. I always match the top tread with the bobbin thread.
It is very important that your quilt is square and flat. If there is a problem with the top, there may also be a problem with how the quilting design lays on the quilt. I can only do my best with what I am given. I will always contact you ahead if there are concerns.
Measure the center of the quilt top vertically. Then measure the outside edges vertically. If there is more than 1⁄2”, it is possible that your top will have tucks when quilted. Do the same measurements horizontally. The most common reasons for measurement differences are stretched bias edges, mitered corners that leave extra fabric on one or both sides of the miter or too much easement when piecing blocks. This can result in small tents or puckers and may cause tucks when the quilt is quilted. If there is any fullness in your quilt or ruffles in your borders, I will do my best to ease in the fullness. But quilt tops with these problems may have tucks and pleats after the quilting is complete.
Backings and batting need to be at least 4" larger on ALL sides of the quilt. For example, if you have a 60" x 60" quilt top, you will need to supply backing and batting sized to 68" x 68". This will supply the needed 4" on all sides of the quilt. There is no guarantee to Centering a quilt top on a pieced backing, although if desired, I will attempt, however additional hourly charges will apply. It requires pre-basting the quilt.
Please make sure backing is cut square also. You can use a 90 degree ruler to make sure it is square. Check your measurements in three places, top, middle and bottom just like you do when apply borders. If you are seaming the backing, use 1⁄2" seam and press seam open. Do not leave the selvages in the seam, but leave selvages on outer sides. Press and fold each piece neatly and separately if mailing; place on hangers if delivering. Do not baste, tack, pin or fuse your top/back/batting together.
Suggested batting for use on a longarm: Hobbs Heirloom Cotton or 80/20 Cotton/Poly, Warm and Natural, Warm & White, Quilters Dream Poly and Cottons, Fatt Batt for lofty poly( good for less than flat quilts)—if in doubt, feel free to contact me for advice on battings for machine quilting. Your batting choice will also have an impact on the final look and feel of your quilt.